Snowfield Peak is a somewhat little known mountain in The North Cascades National Park hidden behind Colonial & Pyramid Peaks. It’s also possibly less known due to its being described as both "Nasty and brutish, but not short enough" and "A pleasant outing with a strenuous approach". But approach it we did.

From July 17^th to the 20^th team leader Doxey Kemp, along with Mario Moreno, Carol Ray, Perry Weinberg, Seth Pollock, Mike Ryan & myself took a trip to Snowfield Peak. I say Doxey was the team leader but actually he was a party of one & we, a party of 6. While signing in at the ranger station the ranger decided that she just couldn’t overlook the fact that we were 7; one more than the party limit of 6. (Note: we only saw two other people up there in four days.) So Doxey says "Ok, I’m going home. Doug, you’re the new leader." "Uhhhhhmmmmmmm, ok?" And with that we headed to the mountain a party of 6 and a non-existent party of 1.

The trail starts from Hiway 20 just past the bridge over Gorge Lake and meanders for about 2.5 miles to Pyramid Lake gaining just around 1600 ft. At the very start of the trail we saw a big black bear. As we stood quietly hoping to see it again we then saw another black bear. But this one was different… it was a baby. Whoops! We hiked the first ¼ mile or so in pretty good time! Pyramid Lake is a good lunch spot. It’s blue & beautiful with sheer cliffs surrounding it on three sides. Hey, this was a pretty smooth trip so far. Unfortunately, the trail ends at the lake. Well, some say that there’s a trail up that ridge. And it IS a sort-of a trail. When you can find it. Up the ridge we went, over talus, through trees and heather grabbing whatever we could for hand holds. Nasty and brutish indeed. Our first camp was at about 4500ft. right on the ridge shoulder at a nice little snow covered lake. That night we heard more and louder frogs than I think I’ve ever heard in my life leading us to name it "Frog Lake".

Next morning our first obstacle was to scale a 100 ft. cliff of 70 to 80 degrees… with overnight packs. Then back to the "strenuous approach". The past winter having been so snowy we were in snow on and off for the rest of the way on the ridge, only another 1000 ft. but every time we found the trail we lost it in the snow again. Some of the climbers did not enjoy this portion of the outing. But we eventually worked our way up to the northeast face of Pyramid Peak where we made a traverse for about ¼ mile under it and Pinnacle Peak on a fairly steep grade. Looking straight down into the Colonial Creek valley over 2000 ft. below helped keep our footing sure. We climbed above the beautiful waterfalls from the runoff of the Colonial Glacier and onto the glacier to camp two. Just a gorgeous place. To the west are the three spires of Pyramid Peak, Pinnacle Peak and Paul Bunyans Stump, to the southeast is Colonial Peak and directly south is the gap that leads to Snowfield Peak itself. Here we took the time to make a nice camp, since we’d be there for two nights, and got the ropes and other gear ready for tomorrow’s climb.

On day three we got an early start, roped up and headed up the Colonial Glacier to the gap at 6850 ft. where we got our first look at, finally, the Neve Glacier and Snowfield Peak. What a fantastic place. From the gap we descended 250 ft. and zig-zaged our way across the glacier. There are some pretty steep ice falls on the Neve but due to all of the snow still up there most of them, as well as the crevasses, were covered which made for easy climbing. Heading south we crossed the entire glacier to the base of a rocky ridge that leads up to the summit. At first we just scrambled up it but as we neared the top it turns into class three and four stuff with some route finding due to a few dead ends. Swinging around onto the north face of the peak, and into the most exposure we had for the trip, 5 of the 7 of us climbed up to the peak where Rolos were passed around as if they weighed nothing.

Getting to the top was especially important to Doxey and myself as we had tried this climb the year before joined by our good friend Steve Short. The cliff on the ridge had stopped us cold as we couldn’t find the proper route up it and we ran behind enough so that the peak couldn’t be tagged with only three days. So this year we gave it four days and it obviously paid off.

On the way down, after getting through the gap and back onto the Colonial Glacier, talk began of climbing Pyramid Peak too. We wouldn’t have to descend much and we were on the right side of the mountain for the climb. But some of us just wanted a nice, relaxing evening at camp. We had put in two rather brutal days as well as summiting today. Granted, summit day hadn’t really been hard, but to stop moving seemed like a good idea. So while Dox, Perry, Carol and Seth continued climbing, Mario, Mike and I headed for camp, dinner, a couple of cigars and a beautiful sunset. Rope team Alpha had a great climb up Pyramid and enjoyed a spectacular sunset also. They got back just before dark and everyone agreed it had been a wonderful day.

Now, day four was interesting. After the ease of being on glacier we re-enter the bushwhacking portion. But down now. One of my favorite quotes from the ridge descent is, upon hearing Carol cussing at a pile of felled trees we’re attempting to go directly through I asked "Are you alright?" to which she answered "NO!!!…………. but I will be." Along with unplanned glissades and shouts of "Hey, how does it look over THERE?!" with the typical response being something like "Well… uuuhhh… I GUESS it’ll go..." we slowly made our way back to Pyramid Lake at which point Mike bent over and kissed the trail. An actual trail. The 2½ miles to the road almost seemed like we were on one of those moving sidewalks in an airport. Effortless.

At the cars we notice something on the windshield. Oh, no. Not a ticket! Nope, just a hello note from our pal Steve Matera who’d been working up that way. Great way to end the trip.

Once, when I met Fred Becky I asked him about Snowfield Peak. He replied "Yeah, that’s a nice little climb." Sure, for you Fred, but for us mortals it is indeed nasty and brutish and it may not be exactly short enough but it sure is a wonderful place that I can heartily give a two thumbs up… and up and up…….